Overview
Travelling between Ouarzazate and Erfoud along the southern side of the High Atlas Mountains you will pass through Boumalne du Dades and Tinerhir. From the oasis of Tinerhir a road leads to the Todra Gorge. Todra is sometimes written Todgha.
Climbing in the Todra Gorge is an unforgettable experience. According to the locals there are over 400 routes on 40 Sectors at Todra. The actual number may be somewhat smaller but the quality and variety is unsurpassed in such a small area.
The intrance of the Gorge is immensely impressive, even climbers experienced in stunning rock-architecture gasp at first sight: The Todra Gorge is stunning, it is a fault in the plateau and feels as if the earth has split open. the brown limestone walls rise 300 metres above the stream, the echoes of jeeps and mules and excited children reverberate around the walls, the tall green palm trees at the mouth of the gorge dwarfed by the towering gateway, it all makes for an impressive spectacle.
If you walk up as far as you can, it feels like you are entering another world, passing through smaller gorges and Berber villages.
Getting There
Next airport : Ouarzazate
Next station : Marrakech. From Marrakech to Ouarzazate by the road : 204 km over Tichka Collar (4-5 hours) The road from Marrakech over the Tichka pass (traditionally the strategic key to the interior) is dramatic purely for the rapidly changing environment. The palmeries are left behind, olive groves and goats appear then disappear before the prevailing orange of the country takes hold south of the pass.
From Ouarzazate, 169 km to Tinerhir (4 hours).Tinerhir is the launch pad to the Gorge 12 km (no 4 X4 necessary to this point). If you climb further into the mountains direction the berber village of Tamtattouchte a four-wheel drive is necessary
Red Tape and Advices
To get to the Gorge, a car is not necessary. Toll to access to the Gorge : 5 Dh (0,5 $)
Always haggle over the price, in the hotels, restaurants, rent-a-cars.
Be careful with false guides, carpet sailers.
Don't give anything to the begging children, don't visit the oasis of Tinerhir with them.
In the Gorge, there is a water spring between the hotels Les Roches and Mansour on the opposite side of the river. Don't never drink the water of the river or the tap water in the hotels.
When To Climb
Spring and autumn are best; summer is just bonkers hot. Nevertheless, it is always possible to find a climbing wall in the shade.
Climbing Sectors
1) Plage Mansour : on the left as you enter the gorge, all a stone's throw from the climbers doss spot Hotel Mansour, One minute from the track, right at the start of the gorge. Avoid the river by crossing it at its shallowest point and traverse leftwards along a small ledge above the water's edge.The first bolts are visible up high.
2) Pilier du Couchant. This is the most compelling line in the Gorge. Two beautiful routes are recommended here. Climbed one after the other they make for a great day's outing:
- AIGUILLE DU GUE : Voie du Defilè
- AIGUILLE DE GABRE : Pilier du Guetteur
3) Satanicos and Hollandaise. These sectors on the right hand side of the gorge are not a place to escape the tourists.
4) De Meuk, the first of the hardcore sectors.
5) Les Jardins. Park by Hotel Jasmina or Les Roches and continue within the gorge. Turn right at the end and follow the dry river bed to reach the crag. good views and amenable routes.
6) Can Güllich : impressive barrel-shaped wall. A stony slog up the hill (10-15 minutes) deposits you on the ledge beneath the smaller-than-it looks crag. Recommended route : Requiem pour le cobra (6c) A must.-On the same side of the valley is the huge
7) Trainee Blanche. On the same side as Can Güllich, this sector was only recently developed and is loaded with stacks of potential.
8) Chaos, a solitary river bed boulder. A fine and varied little crag with some pleasant bouldering nearby, this makes a nice afternoon venue.
9) Petite Gorge, approximately 20 minutes from the hotels. A combination of fine rock, fine routes, fine views and relative solitude.
Accomodation
The hotels within the gorge offer a cheap and characteristic solution. Those more fortunate can reside in the more luxurious Hotel Bougafer at Tinerhir. Food and accommodation is generally very cheap, even if the most spartan accommodation is not recommended to those not used to this type of lodging
In the Gorge :
- Hotel Les Roches
- Hotel Yasmina
At the entrance :
- Hotel La Vallée
In Tinerhir :
- Hotel Kenzi Bougafer
Campings :
- Camping Le Soleil
- Camping l' Auberge Atlas
Mountain Conditions
Most routes in the Todra Gorge are bolt-equipped but the multi-pitch routes need natural gear (nuts & friends).
A 100m rope is recommended as many of the single pitch routes are extremely long; a dozen quickdraws, a rope bag, plenty of chalk and sun lotion are also essentials. Optional extras include a sleeping bag for roof-top sleeping, a camera, baggy trousers, sandals and a grasp of French...
Books
Book "Escalade au Maroc -Todra" from Guy Albert, only in french. Contact with the author : Guy.Abert@wanadoo.fr.
The Italian Mountain Guide Nicolò Berzi (Guide Alpine Milano) organises climbing trips to Todra in autumn and spring for beginners and intermediates.For more information contact +39 0335/6535349 ornicolobe@tiscalinet.it
Travelling between Ouarzazate and Erfoud along the southern side of the High Atlas Mountains you will pass through Boumalne du Dades and Tinerhir. From the oasis of Tinerhir a road leads to the Todra Gorge. Todra is sometimes written Todgha.
Climbing in the Todra Gorge is an unforgettable experience. According to the locals there are over 400 routes on 40 Sectors at Todra. The actual number may be somewhat smaller but the quality and variety is unsurpassed in such a small area.
The intrance of the Gorge is immensely impressive, even climbers experienced in stunning rock-architecture gasp at first sight: The Todra Gorge is stunning, it is a fault in the plateau and feels as if the earth has split open. the brown limestone walls rise 300 metres above the stream, the echoes of jeeps and mules and excited children reverberate around the walls, the tall green palm trees at the mouth of the gorge dwarfed by the towering gateway, it all makes for an impressive spectacle.
If you walk up as far as you can, it feels like you are entering another world, passing through smaller gorges and Berber villages.
Getting There
Next airport : Ouarzazate
Next station : Marrakech. From Marrakech to Ouarzazate by the road : 204 km over Tichka Collar (4-5 hours) The road from Marrakech over the Tichka pass (traditionally the strategic key to the interior) is dramatic purely for the rapidly changing environment. The palmeries are left behind, olive groves and goats appear then disappear before the prevailing orange of the country takes hold south of the pass.
From Ouarzazate, 169 km to Tinerhir (4 hours).Tinerhir is the launch pad to the Gorge 12 km (no 4 X4 necessary to this point). If you climb further into the mountains direction the berber village of Tamtattouchte a four-wheel drive is necessary
Red Tape and Advices
To get to the Gorge, a car is not necessary. Toll to access to the Gorge : 5 Dh (0,5 $)
Always haggle over the price, in the hotels, restaurants, rent-a-cars.
Be careful with false guides, carpet sailers.
Don't give anything to the begging children, don't visit the oasis of Tinerhir with them.
In the Gorge, there is a water spring between the hotels Les Roches and Mansour on the opposite side of the river. Don't never drink the water of the river or the tap water in the hotels.
When To Climb
Spring and autumn are best; summer is just bonkers hot. Nevertheless, it is always possible to find a climbing wall in the shade.
Climbing Sectors
1) Plage Mansour : on the left as you enter the gorge, all a stone's throw from the climbers doss spot Hotel Mansour, One minute from the track, right at the start of the gorge. Avoid the river by crossing it at its shallowest point and traverse leftwards along a small ledge above the water's edge.The first bolts are visible up high.
2) Pilier du Couchant. This is the most compelling line in the Gorge. Two beautiful routes are recommended here. Climbed one after the other they make for a great day's outing:
- AIGUILLE DU GUE : Voie du Defilè
- AIGUILLE DE GABRE : Pilier du Guetteur
3) Satanicos and Hollandaise. These sectors on the right hand side of the gorge are not a place to escape the tourists.
4) De Meuk, the first of the hardcore sectors.
5) Les Jardins. Park by Hotel Jasmina or Les Roches and continue within the gorge. Turn right at the end and follow the dry river bed to reach the crag. good views and amenable routes.
6) Can Güllich : impressive barrel-shaped wall. A stony slog up the hill (10-15 minutes) deposits you on the ledge beneath the smaller-than-it looks crag. Recommended route : Requiem pour le cobra (6c) A must.-On the same side of the valley is the huge
7) Trainee Blanche. On the same side as Can Güllich, this sector was only recently developed and is loaded with stacks of potential.
8) Chaos, a solitary river bed boulder. A fine and varied little crag with some pleasant bouldering nearby, this makes a nice afternoon venue.
9) Petite Gorge, approximately 20 minutes from the hotels. A combination of fine rock, fine routes, fine views and relative solitude.
Accomodation
The hotels within the gorge offer a cheap and characteristic solution. Those more fortunate can reside in the more luxurious Hotel Bougafer at Tinerhir. Food and accommodation is generally very cheap, even if the most spartan accommodation is not recommended to those not used to this type of lodging
In the Gorge :
- Hotel Les Roches
- Hotel Yasmina
At the entrance :
- Hotel La Vallée
In Tinerhir :
- Hotel Kenzi Bougafer
Campings :
- Camping Le Soleil
- Camping l' Auberge Atlas
Mountain Conditions
Most routes in the Todra Gorge are bolt-equipped but the multi-pitch routes need natural gear (nuts & friends).
A 100m rope is recommended as many of the single pitch routes are extremely long; a dozen quickdraws, a rope bag, plenty of chalk and sun lotion are also essentials. Optional extras include a sleeping bag for roof-top sleeping, a camera, baggy trousers, sandals and a grasp of French...
Books
Book "Escalade au Maroc -Todra" from Guy Albert, only in french. Contact with the author : Guy.Abert@wanadoo.fr.
The Italian Mountain Guide Nicolò Berzi (Guide Alpine Milano) organises climbing trips to Todra in autumn and spring for beginners and intermediates.For more information contact +39 0335/6535349 ornicolobe@tiscalinet.it
